London to Lake Garda on the Bernina Express

For the perfect scenic mini break, imagine taking a stress-free train journey all the way from London to the Italian Lakes, by means of one of the most scenic rail journeys in the world! That’s just what Saysha-K did this March, when she took the train to Switzerland to join the Bernina Express, which connects the Swiss Alps to Italy’s Lombardy region:

“The first leg of our journey found us on Eurostar from London St Pancras to Paris Nord. On arrival, we were met by our pre-arranged transfer, who greeted us at the platform and escorted us to Paris Lyon. The cross city transfer was quick and efficient, and I would strongly recommend this service for customers, as navigating Paris can be busy and challenging. Here we boarded the TGV Lyria in second class for the direct journey to Zurich. The train offered clean, comfortable seating, and the option to order food via mobile and collect it from the catering cart, which was ideal for the approximately four hour journey.

Arriving in Zurich we switched to our 1st class 3 day Swiss Travel Pass.  These are very easy to use for unlimited travel on trains, buses, boats, and public transport in over 90 cities. It acts as a digital ticket (PDF) to be shown with a valid ID for free travel, including premium panoramic trains (reservation fees apply), free access to over 500 museums, and up to 50% off mountain excursions. Here we boarded our final connection of the day to Chur, which offered impressive views, particularly as we passed Lake Walen.

We arrived at Chur just before 18.00 and took a short walk to the Hotel Stern Chur – an ideal stop after a full day of travel, and a great location for continuing on the Bernina Express the following morning. The hotel and room were exceptionally clean and traditionally styled, and we dined in the restaurant, where the menu featured traditional Swiss dishes, for authentic local cuisine.

Hotel breakfast was included, with a good selection of dishes, following which we walked to Chur station to board the Bernina Express, which was included with our Swiss Travel Pass, although seat reservations are an additional cost and must be included. (A transfer from the hotel is also available for those who prefer not to walk.)

The Bernina Express is a remarkable journey - the highest rail crossing in Europe with 196 bridges and 55 tunnels, encompassing some dizzying gradients and peaking at 2253 metres above sea level on its 4.5-hour journey. It’s amazing to think it was completed in the early 1900s when it includes such extraordinary engineering feats such as the viaducts at Landwasser and Brusio, and so much stunning scenery – no wonder it has been given UNESCO World Heritage status. This was a truly excellent experience.

I would recommend sitting on the right hand side of the train, as the views were particularly impressive from that side, although the panoramic windows do ensure stunning scenery on both sides.

A highlight of the journey was the brief stop at Alp Grüm where we had time to step off the train and take photos in the snowy mountain setting. Alp Grüm is a stunning, viewing point at 2,091 meters in the Swiss Alps, renowned for its panoramic views of the Palü Glacier and Val Poschiavo. Accessible only by the railway or by hiking, it offers dramatic mountain scenery and a restaurant with a sun terrace.

On arrival in Tirano we had time for lunch before boarding our next train to Milan, followed by a final connection to Desenzano on the shores of Lake Garda. On arrival at we were met by our transfer and taken on a short seven minute drive to Park Hotel, where a four-course meal was included for our first night’s stay. This 4-star hotel was very clean, and the rooftop pool is an excellent feature - particularly appealing for clients visiting during the summer months, and my room also offered a view of the historic town centre.

The next day we spent the morning exploring the town, which has a picturesque harbour and is lovely for a wander. There are good transport connections for excursions - we took a boat trip to Sirmione - highly recommended as it offers beautiful views across the lake and the opportunity to explore the charming town. Here we had lunch at a local restaurant, explored the Grotte di Catullo (Roman ruins museum), and later returned to Desenzano del Garda by road transfer. From Desenzano you can also take day trips by train to Milan, Brescia, Verona, and Venice, so it makes an excellent base for a longer stay.

Our final evening was spent dining at La Taverna Del Garda, a local restaurant just a one minute walk from the hotel. I would highly recommend it, as it offers authentic Italian dishes and the food was excellent.

There was more time for exploring the next morning, before a 1 hour and 40 minutes road transfer to Milan airport for our flight home. You can also take the train, with a change in Milan, which would take approx. 2 hours. The whole trip was such an easy and smooth process, with excellent connections and a well-crafted journey plan. The combination of scenic rail, Swiss mountains and Italian lakeside exploration was a brilliant one for a short break – with plenty more to see if you are lucky enough to have a longer stay - I really enjoyed the whole trip.”